| Buffalo Nickel Die Variety Categories |
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Buffalo Nickel die varieties can be grouped into four (4) categories as shown below. By definition, a "Type" is a planned design change, while a "Variety" is an unplanned design error made during die manufacture or die ware during coinage production. The 1913 Type I and Type II reverse designs were planned by the Mint, while the 1913 Type II doubled die reverse variety (BN13P2-201) was an unplanned die error made by Mint employees. These die varieties error have now turned out to be works of art made by working people.
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Doubled Dies: This error passes on exactly the doubled design elements from the working die to each and every coin that is struck by the die. Based on diagnostics of the doubling, doubled dies can be classified into eight (8) types.
Repunched and Over Mintmarks: A repunched mintmark occurs when a mintmark is punched into the working die in more than one location, showing the mintmark as overlapping or occassionally as separate images. An over mintmark is when two different mintmarks have been punched into the die, showing both mintmarks as overlapping or totally separate images.
Abraded Dies: Of the four (4) variety categories, abraded errors seem to be more unique to the Buffalo Nickels series. Here we have die elements that are abraded or polished off by fine wire brushes in an attempt to remove clash marks. The most famous is these is the 1937-D Three-Legged variety that was aggressively polished down by an apprentice pressman. Missing disigner initials and 2-feathers varieties also fall into this catogory.
Destructive Dies: This catogory includes die cracks and cuds. Like an Abaded Die error, this variety is caused by alteration of the die during coin production and is progressive. A cud results in a "blob" of metal on the coin when part of the die breaks away. Probabaly the most notable in this catogory is the 1920 Buffalo Nickel with a major cud on the reverse at 6:00. Because of the cud's location on this coin, the mintmark is unknown for this variety.
Based on these four (4) categories BuffaloNickel.com uses the color coded numbering system shown below. Each variety category has its own number series and color coding. This allows any two people to most likley come up with the same identification number for any new variety. Say if, an overmint mark D over S is discovered for the 1914-D Buffalo Nickel, the variety ID would then be BN14D-401... or maybe BN14D/S-401. The numbering series and color coding aids in visual reference and presentation, so that one is immedately alerted to the variety type.
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Series |
Example |
Die Varieties |
Start # |
Buffalo Nickel Die Variety Category |
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100 |
BN16P-101 |
Doubled Die Obverse |
101 |
Obverse and Reverse Doubled Dies |
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200 |
BN17P-204 |
Doubled Die Reverse |
201 |
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300 |
BN15D-301 |
Repunched Mintmark |
301 |
Repunched and Over Mintmarks |
|
400 |
BN38D-402 |
Over Mintmark |
401 |
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510 |
BN35P-511 |
No Designer Intials |
511 |
Abraded Dies - No Intials & 3-Feather etc. |
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520 |
BN38D-521 |
Three Feathers |
521 |
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530 |
BN38D-531 |
3 or 3-1/2 Legged Buffalo |
531 |
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600 |
BN18S-603 |
Die Cracks |
601 |
Die Cracks and Major Cuds |
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700 |
BN20?-701 |
Major Cuds |
701 |
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What you need to get started....
To start learning about and finding rare Buffalo Nickel die varieties you should "buy the book first" - as is true with most indervors. Actually, it's recommended that you buy two books.
The first book is the 5th Edition, Vol. 1 of the Cherrypickers Guide by Bill Fivaz and J. T. Stanton - covering Half Cents through Nickels. Later you might want to purchase Vol. 2 that covers Half Dimes through Gold and Commemoratives. You won't find all the Buffalo Nickel varieties listed in the GPG - but most of the major ones.
The second must read is The Authoritative Reference on Buffalo Nickels by Kevin Flynn, Ron Pope, and John Wexler, where most of the known Buffalo Nickel die varieties are listed and discussed. Links to purchase these books can be found on ths page.
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Next you will want to look at coins close-up, and that will require some type of magnification. Purchasing both a 7x and 10x power magnifying Loupe will save you a lot of trial and error. The 7x power will become your first look and most used piece because you will be able to get most of the coin magnified into the lens view. Then when greater magnification is required to zoom in on something interesting, the 10x power can be used. A cherry picker can find that using a 10x exclusivley may lead to missing the overall aesthetics of a coin, and even missing something important outside the scope of the lens. You won't find much need for a Loupe greater than 10x power. If you do then a microscope is probably your next choice.
You want your Loupes to last many years and not become lost. Therefore, don't buy one because it's cheaper then the rest. A Loupe is not that expensive, so buy the best to last and that's a Bausch & Lomb. There are a lot of cheap Loupes coming from China now, and most don't stand up to much use. Stay away from those that swivel on tiny Philips-head screws, or you will be constantly trying to screw them back in, and eventually the screws will come out and become lost.
Finally, so you don't lose your Loupes, attach them each to their own sturdy string, or even better purchase some type of neck strap like those use to hang credential passes.
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